“3 days in Munich? What will you do there,” asked a friend. As it turned out, 3 days were barely enough. The vibrant city with oodles of old world charm has plenty to offer within the city itself, apart from day trips, all of which we had already visited. Munich turned out to be a city that we fell head over heels in love with. The old town had already enamored us the previous day (Germany May 2018: Munich, the charming Bavarian capital), this day, we chose to visit the BMW welt, Munich Residenz and English Garden.
After buying a Munich inner city pass that would allow us to use the train and bus network, we set off to the Bayerische Motoren Werke (BMW) welt and were surprised to see a bunch of high school kids get off at the stop. I was amazed by their interests till I entered the welt and realised that they were there to play racing games on the free Xbox consoles. The kid didn’t get a chance to play till we were about to leave. We had a blast looking around at all the beemers on display and choosing the ones we would buy if we could. The kid, unsurprisingly chose a concept car.
From here, we headed to the Munich Residenz, the seat of government and residence of the Bavarian royalty. We got off the U-bahn stop and turned into the palace gardens just behind the Residenz.
Sadly, it was too hot to tour the gardens, so we turned to look at the Residenz.
“Imposing building,” I thought, as I tried to push open the doors. “No, no, you can’t enter,” cried a man, “the entrance is all the way around.” ‘All the way around’ turned out to be a long way around. We walked into many courtyards, but couldn’t gain entry through any of those.
We had to walk back almost half the way to Marienplatz, to a square called Max-Joseph-Platz square and then get in. The walk in the sun was very pleasing to the eyes, with architecture like this to feast the eyes on.
We stashed away our backpacks and entered the first HUGE room, the Antiquarium (the room of Antiquities), built to house dozens of sculptures. By far the most beautiful of all the rooms, it was filled with just the right amount of art and sculpture.
We walked from one end to the other and back, staring at the ceiling as much as at the walls, and stood at one end and saw how different it looked with a change of position.
This grandest room of this grand palace was stunning and captured our attention for the longest time. However it turned into the benchmark that everything else didn’t quite live up to.
Munich residenz is a huge palace, where bits and pieces have been added on by different rulers. It actually looks deceptively small from the outside. There were lots of museum personnel who politely showed you the way and very enthusiastically opened doors and gushed about the rooms ahead. It was clear that the palace employees loved their jobs and were very proud of their city. I found this very very impressive. As we walked through, a gentleman reminded us to go back to see the shell grotto, which was well worth the walk back.
From here, we entered a huge gallery with fancy chandeliers and gilt portrait frames with paintings of the entire Wittelsbach clan. Apparently these had all been removed just before the bombing of WWII and hidden in bunkers.
There were many others that hadn’t been salvaged, hence there were many rooms with empty portrait frames. The palace was filled with rooms of gold and gilt. Some rooms had color themes like deep red, cream, blue or even green.
The wallpaper matched the furniture and sometimes, it was more garish than elegant, but grand it certainly was. However, after a while, we got tired of all the sparkle and were happy to see a relatively simple (and very pretty) chapel.
Some things were very beautiful indeed like the intricate tapestries on the walls.
And beautiful artwork on the ceilings.
And intriguing paintings on the walls of subjects that would have been perfect for the surface anatomy class of college.
And a desk that the kid said she’d love to use as a book reading table.
After some time, we got terribly bored. We hadn’t taken the audio guide, so all the rooms looked the same after a while.
So, we left the minute we saw a shortcut to the exit. We didn’t even see the treasury or the theatre, both of which are supposed to be very beautiful. We swiftly caught a train to our hotel, hogged on a delicious meal and rested the entire afternoon.
The much-needed rest perked us up and we set off to the Odeonplatz once again, now to the English Garden. I’ve always loved large open green areas in cities and visit them on every trip, so naturally, the English Garden could be no exception. But I hadn’t bargained for this wonderful oasis. We just walked through the gardens behind the Residenz, crossed a busy road where cyclists crossed us at supersonic speeds and entered the green patch, where the world seemed to shut itself out. It was as though we were in a different Munich.
Huge tree cover, many walking paths, benches all around and large open green spaces intersected by small streams characterised this wonderland. There was no street noise, it seemed more like a forest. We walked down a path and came upon a small rivulet.
Swans and ducks swam in this little water body and the kid desperately wanted to take a little gosling home. Ducks walked about us fearlessly, well accustomed to human presence.
There were large green spaces packed with people walking, jogging, playing with their kids or dogs, cycling or just enjoying the sun. It was amazing. It was only 6pm in the evening and everyone was free from work to relax. This is a good quality of life indeed. I can’t imagine going to a public garden at 6pm on a working day in Mumbai!
We walked on, enjoying our leisurely stroll as suddenly came upon yet another stream rolling over some rocks.
Part of a city? Unbelievable. We fell in love with this oasis. I only missed packing a picnic basket. The kid missed renting a bicycle and cycling about. “Next time,” I promised her.
I was keen on finding the bit of the river where a one foot high wave is created and surfers plunge into the freezing waters for their bit of fun. This huge garden is unfortunately not very well-marked so it’s not easy to navigate, but we saw a surfer and asked him the directions. A lot more walking led us to a narrow width of water where we could see surfers in the water. Excited, we followed the path upstream.
It was great fun to watch. There was a small stream 10 feet wide with waves at one place. On both sides of the stream in 2 very orderly rows, stood a line of surfers. They alternately jumped into the surf and rode the waves til they fell in and got swept away by the current.
Surfing in the center of the city! That’s Munich. We looked about for the stream that was the source of the water but couldn’t locate it. It came out from under a bridge, on the other side of which was the city. It was amazing. On one side were cars and motorcycles and huge buildings and on three other a stream with surfers and a huge green garden.
We stood there for long and then finally moved on. We walked deeper into the garden where there were large lawns. I could see the Monopteros, a small Greek style pavilion high on the slope and headed there.
The hubby and I struggled up the slope while the kid found a nice staircase and merrily climbed up. While standing at the pavilion, the whole garden sprawled out in front of us with the old town in the background.
We sat there, recovering our breath and enjoying the view before heading back down.
Now we were tired and hungry, so we walked the short distance to the Chinese tower beer garden, to enjoy the perfect German meal.
The kid read the menu and promptly refused, saying she wanted to get back to the Turkish eatery we’d eaten at the previous day, so we tried figuring out how to get back to Marienplatz without walking backwards, when we suddenly;y came upon a large road with a bus stop. The road goes through the center of the garden, and wisely, we walked no further and saw no more of the garden, but headed back in a bus.
We spent the evening at the old town, wishing time would stand still and the holiday get prolonged, but these things don’t happen. Yet, we had had a wonderful day at Munich and slept well, dreaming of tree covered paths and bridges over streams in the midst of a bustling city.